The cold wet road to Belgrade

We awake unrefreshed after a restless night due to the double espresso that we had enjoyed after supper, and the disco from the villa opposite. We had arranged an early breakfast at 7am but were surprised to find the place empty. The owner arrives holding up 7 fingers and we nod in agreement. He looks a little confused and ushers us into his cafe to offer us a coffee. The clock on the wall says 6 o'clock and the penny drops. We had not realised that Serbian time is an hour behind Romania. Simon makes small talk in hand signals and O'level German. Overnight the weather has changed dramatically and it is overcast, windy and cold. Very soon we are putting on all our layers and it is the return of the saggy lycra stocking look. We grind away against the wind only managing 8 miles an hour - constantly buffeted, there is no chance of freewheeling in the slipstream today. The scenery is dull and just when we thought it couldn't get any worse it starts to pour with rain. Our approach to Belgrade is firstly through vast petrochemical works and refineries, then a horrendously busy motorway (which signs indicate we shouldn't be on) and the bridge over the Danube. Here we take refuge onto a narrow raised pedestrian walkway while coaches and lorries hurtle past within inches of us. The relative safety of this soon ends and we return to the highway. Simon is immediately engulfed in a tidal wave of water caused by an inconsiderate Serbian lorry driver. Like a loyal spaniel I keep Simon in my sights and just pedal while he navigates us through downtown Belgrade. The map is now in shreds and the signposts are in cyrillic! We eventually find our hotel and are once again transported to another world but this time one of opulence and luxury. We think we have been upgraded as we are in a magnificent suite, but we'll know when we get the bill. Our worst day yet ends with a delicious meal opposite the opera house and our first bottle of red wine. Classical music plays in the background and we are transported from misery to Mozart. (Bela Crka to Belgrade - 66 miles)