Our room in the apex of the crooked house is known as "the heavenly room", which well describes the celestial ascent to reach it along narrow twisting staircases. We are close to the many churches of Ulm, which chime every quarter of an hour, each one slightly out of sync with its neighbour. Heaven for campanologists but not for light sleepers; they still seemed to be at it at 5 am! A day off from cycling but we continue the celestial theme by climbing the 768 steps to the top of the steeple of Ulm cathedral, the tallest in the world apparently; a sweaty handed, vertiginous ascent, (the Led Zeppelin classic comes to mind), but with fantastic views from the top. Siesta later, with a spectacular storm raging outside. Authentic Swabian restaurant for supper, serving meat dishes such as "boiled ox with horseradish", "veal lung" and "calves kidney with sour sauce and dumplings". Fortunately Swabian specialities also include "lighter" noodle and pasta dishes which we opt for, washed down with "Konig Ludwig Dunkel" beer, a heady dark beer which in its draft form weighs in at an impressive 7% alcohol. A diversion tomorrow to the Blautopf, as recommended by a German cyclist we met the other day, the source of the river Blau, that flows pretty much underneath our hotel.
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